Here's some keys to understanding Keith's crazy stances.
]]>It's easy to point to Keith as the godfather for surrealism in rap: The Dali with a doo-rag, “The Persistence of Time” with rhyme. It's true the guy rapped about being an alien years before Lil Wayne would “hover, hover” over hip hop. But that ain't right, and misses some of the crop circles that paved the way in the cornfield for the explicitly strange/strangely explicit rapper we know today.
Here's some keys to understanding Keith's crazy stances.
1st Photo : Guests at the “Kool Keith N Cheese Party”, Shanghai (Photos Courtesy of Co. Cheese Shanghai) // 2nd Photo : Kool Keith concert poster // 3rd Photo : Coloring book artwork of Dr. Octagon from the “Kool Keith N Cheese Party”, Shanghai (Photos Courtesy of Co. Cheese Shanghai)
I
Kool Keith emerged from the mish mosh of syntax that underlines the rhymes of original hip hop.
No rapper is as good as Melle Mel from the original class of hip hop MCs. His gritty tales and soulfulness give his raps a resonance that resounds today. Beyond just the oft-cited “The Message,” or even “White Lines,” dig “Step Off.”
But then we get to “Pump Me Up” from 1985. We're not sitting on the stoop talking to a street, hearing urban lore from a street prophet…we're in the sea?
“Then I met this shark and his name was Jaws
He was biting my rhymes like y'all bite yours
I starting writing my rhymes the shark grew and grew
But I was writing more rhymes than the shark could chew”
Wait, what?
That sort of flight of fancy infuses many rhymes, and is a built in feature of the fun of many of the genre's party raps, fashionable at a time when disco ruled the dance-floors and airwaves. In their efforts to grab bag a word salad to get to their end rhymes, rappers would clearly take liberties with a straight narrative to get to matching end syllables of their lines. And if this so happened to lead them to take a left turn into a cul-de-sac of weirdness, it just added to the novelty of their raps. At a time when most raps were padded with “yes, yes y'alls” and “put your hands in the air,” rapping about all sorts of insanity is at least a way to stand out.
Besides, this novelty aspect finds itself in any new genre. Artists in these undeveloped forms are more likely to take things from a silly stance before the claws of seriousness lock in like Pinky The Cat. Rock N Roll had Bobby “Boris” Pickett sing “The Monster Mash,” hip hop had duo Dr. Jeckyll & Mr. Hyde (see their doo-wop pastiche “Jeckyll And Hyde Dance”); rock had Billy Riley's “Flyin' Saucers Rock & Roll” and hip hop had Blondie rap about Martians munching on cars (in “Rapture”).
These raps might have been a way of filling space and notching rhythmic meter before more established lanes were set. And they are that, period. But in accomplishing this, they could touch on the bizarre, and it's easy to see a direct line between what a young Kool Keith heard in them and his eventual rap sheet.
Read : The Persistence of Rhyme: Why Kool Keith Matters PT1 here!
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II
Kool Keith carries the flag of the bearers who also established a nation under a groove.
Before hip hop was funk. With funk you have two fathers: James Brown and George Clinton.
Brown was from the old-school and came from the era of suits and shined shoes. While there's some braggadocio (“Sex Machine”) he kept the real freaky stuff backstage (or perhaps in crystal meth pipes on the highways while being chased by the police).
Clinton? He came from the tail-end of that era, and his first major record label, Motown, was known to put its act through the paces. But hanging out and dropping acid at gigs with The MC5, Alice Cooper, and other Detroit freaks quickly shed those vines. And while much of the sound of hip hop comes from his disco-fied second group Parliament, the philosophical side is traced to his earlier music unit, Funkadelic.
And that philosophy was shunning the frigidity of coolness for not giving a flying fuck. This pertains to many levels, but particularly here we can focus on the deeply personal area of sexuality. The band said “Free your mind, and your ass will follow” and that's ass in a corporal sense – but also carnal. 1974's album “Standing on the Verge of Getting It On,” features two tracks back to back revolutionary in this way.
Track 5 (the title track) opens with a tape-manipulated squeaky voice (a la The Chipmunks) saying: “Hey Baby why don't you be my dog, and I'll be your tree, and you can pee on me.” Yes, watersports...look it up. Or don't…
Track 6 is titled “Jimmy's Got A Little Bit Of Bitch In Him” and is clearly about a homosexual associate. And while not PC by today's standards, the fact is, it acknowledges the situation. And while teasing in nature, it's nowhere near gay-panic, and that should be commended. And this is coming from The African American community, not largely known for progressive views on sexuality. As Pat Patterson would say: holy banana.
Photo : Kool Keith at a Futura art exhibition
III
From the shadows…Rammellzzee
From the shadowy realm is Rammellzee. Rammellzee was a samurai robot who slung a shotgun in the streets and put Jean-Michael Basquiat in his place. He's a whole other trip. We'll visit the world of Rammellzzee some other time...
DJ BO's Deep-Dive Kool Keith Playlist:
-The Analog Brothers – “Bionic Oldsmobile” – The Analog Brothers was an overlooked group project featuring Kool Keith and Ice-T rapping over beats made by vintage synthesizers. If Shaft went to space instead of Africa, it would sound like this.
Photo : Kool Keith, Ice-T, Ced Gee
-Dr. Octagon – “Halfsharkalligatorhalfman” – If “Bionic Oldsmobile” is Shaft, then this is a lost Ed Wood classic. From the ridiculous vintage horror theremin and exaggerated movie-style voice over delivery, this is my favorite Dr. Octagon.
-Kool Keith – “Make Up Your Mind” – From Keith's porno-rap album “Sex Style,” Keith starts his verse by yelling “Freak mode!” and doesn't turn back. And the title? It's NOT the start of an innocent question…
-The Ultramagnetic MCs – “Travelling At The Speed of Thought” – Perhaps The Ultramagnetic MCs most electrifying single. That “Louie Louie” sample though! Years after it was released, Chuck D would reference it on “Shut Em Down” by counting number by number from 1 to 9.
Dig That! Jimmy Cliff, Another Cycle LP
The Hip Hop of Things EP5. Masia One
To give (blue) flowers, as N.O.R.E. would say, we recently put on a Kool Keith tribute night here in Shanghai at local grilled-cheese hang Co. Cheese, appropriately titled the “Kool Keith N Cheese Party.”
Shanghai: we invented the squeeze (Google it), and now we threw the first of a kind party.
Along with a night of Kool Keith cult classics/best sellers being spun, it featured his music video oeuvre on the screen, Doc. Oct (whiskey) syringe shots, and coordinated coloring pages. Natch.
Here’s how we prepped the Shanghai-ren to help move those clueless to familiar.
Top Photo : Doc. Oct (whiskey) syringe shot // Bottom Photo : Guests at the “Kool Keith N Cheese Party”, Shanghai (Photos Courtesy of Co. Cheese Shanghai)
Don't Be A Soft Duck: Bare Witness To The Facts
Keith is from The Bronx, New York, USA, and has been rapping since the mid 1980s. He first emerged as the lead vocalist of golden age hip hop's The Ultramagnetic MCs. The group's main producer and second mic, Ced-Gee, largely ghost-produced the classic Criminal Minded for Boogie Down Productions, released in 1987. That poised Ultramagnetic's own debut, Critical Beatdown, a year later, for success. Alas it's only become a cult classic in more recent years. The group's next album (“Funk Your Head Up”) was another commercial beatdown, although it did spawn a minor music video hit with “Poppa Large,” which features Keith rapping with a birdcage on his head. After line-up changes and other shenanigans, the group disbanded.
Top Photo : Kool Keith sippin' // Bottom Photo : Ultramagnetic MCs
If the title “Critical Beatdown” was a threat, it finally manifested itself nearly a decade into his career when Keith joined with producer Dan “The Automator” Makamura and turntablist (and Shanghai visitor) DJ Qbert to release an album under the moniker Dr. Octagon titled Dr. Octagonecologyst. As Wikipedia dryly, succinctly, and hilariously describes our protagonist, he's: “a homicidal, extraterrestrial, time-traveling gynecologist and surgeon.” And that's just where the party starts: the good doctor also has an uncle named Mr. Gerbik (also vocalized by Keith), who, we learn is: “half-shark, half-man, skin like alligator/Carrying a dead walrus.”
Somewhere, Salvador Dali, bending time and grabbing on his nurse's 3 oversized tits with crab claws, nods approvingly.
The album sold a truckload for an independent release before it was bought up by a major and re-released. Dave Navarro has been quoted praising the album. On a list titled “I don't like hip hop music generally, but…” “Dr. Octagonecologyst” might top it.
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Top : Still of Lotion Man from the Kool Keith Show // Bottom : Colored drawing of Dr. Octagon by Unknown Artist from the “Kool Keith N Cheese Party” in Shanghai
Keith, now re-energized down to his monkey green socks, followed up with a barrage of freakiness: the porno-rapped Sex Style, the star-themed/pop-leaning Black Elvis/Lost in Space and countless other efforts.
What Keith lost in traditional hip hop clout, which largely eluded him anyway, he more than made up for with indie cred, despite expressing his chagrin in the extent of his now largely white audience. Then again, he would say this while clearly lying about everything down to his age, with interviewers short of Peter Rosenburg largely being overwhelmed by Keith's Keithness.
In 2010, a precocious/pre Shanghai-scarred DJ BO could find Keith on the second stage at the hippie Harvest of Hope Festival in rural Florida, wearing a “Don't Worry, be crabby – Florida” t-shirt, running through his “hits.” The rapper was credited on the schedule as “Dr. Octagon aka Kool Keith” although he made no efforts to acknowledge this. Elsewhere at the festival, Kimya Dawson sang of tricycles in trees.
Keith still releases a prodigious amount of music, which he largely now produces himself.
Top Photo : Kool Keith - 'Thug Or What' (Rawkus Records) Album Cover // Bottom Photo : Kool Keith - 'Total Orgasm' (Junkadelic Records, Fat Beats) Box Set Cover
The Kool Keith Bare Witness Playlist.
5 songs to get an accessible (as possible) overview of what he's about :
- The Ultramagnetic MCs – Poppa Large [Beatminerz Remix] – Kool Keith's first group's biggest hit (relatively). Keith goes off insane as usual, and this remix is early 90's boom bap goodness. Best served with the accompanying music video.
- Dr. Octagon – Blue Flowers – Dr. Octagon's signature song. It's a rap song that could be played next to “White Rabbit” by Jefferson Airplane and not feel out of place. Also best served with the accompanying music video.
- Kool Keith – Supergalactic Lover – The most accessible song on his most accessible album Black Elvis/Lost in Space. With a strolling beat and singalong/sweet female vocal chorus, it's Keith for kids.
- the Prodigy – Smack My Bitch Up – The most heard Keith's voice has ever been heard is probably from the sample looped throughout this track. The album sold a zillion copies and the music video is legendary. For a lot of people, they might not know the name Kool Keith, but they know his voice from here.
- Thee Undertakerz – Party in the Morgue [Club Mix] – The track originally appeared on Keith's horror-core project, and then rose again on the “Blade: Trinity” soundtrack. Despite the morbid title, it's a club ready track in any version.
Check in Tuesday Feb. 8, 2022 for PT2!
Top Photo : Analog Brothers // Bottom Photo : Concert Flyer
Wonder what estatic Kool Keith track DJ BO is playin' here? Hit us up in the comments with your favorite Kool Keith track, or 2!
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Yu Su wears multi-pattern button up by GCDS, white tank by Helmut Lang, Jewelry by Room 312, all from Colton Couture. Knit hat by On The Go Fashion.
Left : Yu Su wears pink cardigan by Acne Studios, Jewelry by Ambush. Right : T-shirt by Acne Studios, Green Button Up by GCDS, and Jewelry by Ambush. All from Colton Couture.
Yu Su wears multi-pattern button up by GCDS, white tank by Helmut Lang, Jewelry by Room 312, all from Colton Couture. Knit hat by On The Go Fashion.
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Song snippets featured :
Masia One - Not All that Glitters is Gold
Masia One - Warriors Tongue
Masia One - Social Distancing
SG : I would like to apologize again for not being considerate of your condition. We shot with you outside and you are more sensitive to sunlight. Is the Hong Kong weather difficult for you?
Kenny : Yes, being an albino, it can be a challenge for living in Hong Kong. This is because having albinism implies a lack of melanin within the human body, leading to a malfunction of the eyes. With this condition, my eyes become sensitive when living in the subtropical climates or any other bright environment. Apart from this, lacking in melanin also leads to sensitive skin, which means that the skin could be easily burnt under the hot sun. Considering these underlying, yet minor difficulties, I believe that these can be overcome by simply carrying out sun protection measures.
LEFT : Kenny wears total look Salvatore Ferragamo // RIGHT : Cable knit sweater from Salvatore Ferragamo
SG : You are born and raised in Hong Kong? Tell us about what you are doing?
Kenny : Yes, I was born and raised in Hong Kong. I am currently a student studying accounting and finance. In the hardship of the COVID-19 pandemic, I usually stay at home for the online classes like a typical university student weekdays. In my spare time in recent months, I often read books, or watch videos and dramas related to what I am interested in, a lot of history, politics, and investments. Sometimes, stock trading also drives my enthusiasm to live through these boring months.
Kenny wearing shades stylist's own, pinstripe blazer and black denim by Dunhill
SG : You would like to be a model? What interests you about fashion?
Kenny : It would be cool to be a model because being a model means that I would have limitless opportunities to try a wide variety of clothes and styles for which I have never imagined before. I would regard these sorts of fruitful experiences as a process of self-exploration, in which I would better understand what styles, or single items are compatible to my albino self.
Besides, I think modelling might potentially open a new chapter in my life. From my personal background it’s not hard to speculate that I am the kind of person who think logically, speak carefully, and act prudently. That’s why somehow there is a feeling of living in a structured, and established box. Modelling offers me huge possibilities to meet fashion people, to blend myself into an artistic environment, and open many new doors.
From a wider perspective, albinism is also a catalyst driving my interest into the fashion area. It would be great if more people understand albinism and appreciate the uniqueness of it.
Wearing STR3AK Clothing Booyaa Hoodie available on SPITGAN.COM, and Chinese Print Puffa Set from Savage Storeroom available at SPITGAN.COM, shoes model's own.
SG : Having just worked together. What do you think it will take for you to be a successful model? What do you need to work on?
Kenny : I think a learning mindset prevails. As an industry outsider, I have no knowledge about what superior skills or qualities a good model should be well-equipped with. What can a model do to coordinate with the photographer or other co-workers perfectly. For this shoot specifically, I think how to give natural postures is a good lesson to study. Apart from this, I think having my own style could also be a determining factor to succeed, as this could help you grab the attention and leave a impression with people.
SG : How would you describe your own style?
Kenny : I think it’s too early to position myself having a specific style. First, it’s because I am a newcomer to the fashion field. Second, I think that albinos have a high plasticity to be shaped into any possible experimental styles, since we do not have any obvious color on the body that may negatively affect the presentation of the intended clothes or makeup. If there must be a word to describe my own style, I would say it would be the style of high compatibility.
LEFT : Wearing shades stylist's own, pinstripe blazer and black denim by Dunhill // RIGHT : Kenny wears STR3AK Clothing Booyaa Hoodie available on SPITGAN.COM
SG : Do you know any Hong Kong fashion brands? Pls share some of your favorites.
Kenny : Since I am not an expert in the fashion area, I do not have any big names in my mind at the moment. I do think it would be great if the Hong Kong local fashion industry could be supported and widely known by more people, both locally and internationally.
SG : Can you tell us about your Hong Kong? What are 3 places you like to hang out and why?
Kenny : I would describe Hong Kong as a highly metropolitan city, so hanging out with my friends and family in Mong Kok Plaza is a thing I often do. Also, I have developed a habit of running in a sports ground near my home for the last three years. Besides that, Tai Kwun, the newly renovated art and shopping complex, is a place I love to hang out with my friends, as the classical buildings attract me a lot.
Kenny wearing STR3AK Clothing Booyaa Hoodie available on SPITGAN.COM, and Chinese Print Puffa Set from Savage Storeroom available at SPITGAN.COM
SG : So what is special about Hong Kong?
Kenny : Hong Kong is special because it’s a rare place where Chinese culture meets the western one. All the while, it’s somehow localized, with its languages, buildings, values, etc.
SG : Can you tell us about your plans for the near future? Any projects coming up or goals you want to achieve?
Kenny : Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, some of my intended plans were cancelled, but I hope that some little goals could be accomplished such as finding a graduate job suiting my personal interest as financial analyst. On a more personal level, my exercise plan has been disrupted due to the pandemic so now I have some gym equipment in my home. So I will probably resume my exercise plan very soon.
Wearing STR3AK Clothing Booyaa Hoodie available on SPITGAN.COM, black denim by Dunhill, green sandals by Salvatore Ferragamo.
Check out our interview with Jodie Chan for the "Made in Hong Kong" series here!
3) Ximen Cinema Park. Legal walls.
4) Yuanshan Legal Walls.
5) Meiti Riverside Park. Legal walls.
6) Guanshan River Park. Legal walls.
Tainan Map and more Creepy Mouse works below, after advertisement.
Tainan Map of recommended graffiti spots by CreepyMouse and the location of some of his work :
1) Sicao Bridge. Illegal spot.
"My favorite spot in Tainan because it is a seaside site, under the bridge. With the pleasing sounds of waves, and not many people there. It's quite a chill place! We call the spot 'Under the Sicao Bridge!'"
2) Zhonghua Road Legal Wall.
3) Siway Underpass. Legal Spot.
"Reality with Fantasy. In my life everything runs in reality and fantasy, so the piece is made up of many contrasting words to mean what things I met/experienced.
4) Tainan Skatepark. Legal Spot.
"Face the Truth. Sometimes when you see everything clearly and find the truth, you will lay down everything from your heart."
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SPITGAN : Yo appreciate it my G! Been a good sec. Maybe someday we will release our first collab on these pages to shock our readers... Introduce yourself a bit.
Mike Magik : Just to kick off, a little introduction about myself. I go by the Mike Magik, representing 143 Liverpool Street Familia out of Sydney, Supernaturalz Crew in Toronto, and Boyz in the Hood, Taiwan. I’m a B-Boy, and also an Emcee, hosting dance events and parties out here in Asia, with my main base of operations located in Shanghai, China. My current job is working as a consultant for a company looking to branch into street culture, which includes clothing, media and education. Due to Breaking being accepted by the IOC, it is now what many institutions are trying to capitalize on.
SPITGAN : When was the first day the Corona Virus really hit home for you?
MM : To be honest, I did not even know that the outbreak was even happening in China in January. I was coming back home from a Spain tour with my crew from Taiwan prior to Chinese New Year. I got back home from the airport at around 1AM, and at that time I did not see anything out of the ordinary. I guess it hit me the next morning when my Wechat blew up with messages from a close friend in Hong Kong asking if I was OK, and if the Shanghai airports were taking heightened measures to make sure that passengers coming in and out of China had any health issues. Even though Shanghai is two provinces away from Wuhan, with the amount of media coverage available from both the Chinese government as well as the international community, there was a sense of uncertainty. So even before they decided to lockdown several affected provinces I already had a feeling that this situation was not going away any time soon.
Photo 2 : Cheeky Mike Magik at a Japanese onsen, taking in the sunset.
SPITGAN : How do you feel about your country's response in general, and specifically to your industry?
MM : Despite how international media has been portraying the Chinese government on their handling of the situation, this is one of the few times I would say I am actually happy to be living in China. I know many people are going to have their own opinion of how information gets released out in this part of the world, and to be honest there are certain things that do not sit well with me, but that is not what we are here to talk about. I think that the Chinese government has done a tremendous job in getting the country to where it stands today (with regards to slowing down the spread of the virus). I guess that is the difference when you are living in a country where you do not have to worry about re-elections, constituents, and the other bullshxt that comes along with being a politician. Having said that, I also was not born yesterday, and I know to take whatever information I receive within China, with a grain of salt.
With regards to our industry in general, I have yet to hear, or see any statements about the government reaching out with any relief measures. However with the majority of the country’s resources being poured into helping the frontline/essential workers, and those who have been afflicted with the virus, I can understand that those of us work in the arts/culture business, let alone any other form of business, are not what the government is focusing on.
SPITGAN : What have you been doing during this global lockdown period?
MM : Shanghai never had a full scale lockdown similar to the one that occurred in Wuhan and its surrounding provinces. However, due to the fact that majority of the work force in Shanghai relies on the out of town population, Shanghai definitely felt like a ghost town for a long time. Since prior to the pandemic happening, I was working as a freelancer, so I had quite a lot of free time to begin with, but rather quickly my daily routine was definitely thrown into disarray. I was not able to go out to practice, let alone leave my home, and slowly that was driving my mind insane. Luckily a few of my homies from Sydney really helped keep my head above water. Shout outs go to my mentor Poe One, and my best friend Jo for consistently keeping contact with me. My mentor is a very spiritual person, and often advised me to meditate whenever I felt like my head was in the wrong space, and Jo would often take the time to set up calls so that I could have some semblance of having a social life.
As I slowly accepted the fact that my situation was not going to change any time soon, I gradually decided to get off my ass and just try to do things which I normally did not have the opportunity to when I had a busy work schedule. Nowadays I’m stepping up my workout game, going on a lot of bike rides to substitute for the lack of swimming, trying to maintain the health of my knees. In addition to that, I have been getting back into cooking which is somewhat another passion of mine, I look forward to the weekends when the weather is good, especially since I discovered that we have a grill at home.
SPITGAN : What's the first thing you gonna do when you can move freely?
MM : When the time comes around and travel restrictions start to get lifted, I think the first thing, would be to take a week long sabbatical to somewhere tropical and re-up my tan. I was scheduled to go to Singapore for a massive dance event that capped off with a beach party... however that plan went belly up as the pandemic spread across South East Asia. I feel my skin tone has gone a couple of shades lighter, which I am not accustomed to. Other than that, I would just like to get together with the homies and have a dirty night out where we try to retrace our steps the morning after.
SPITGAN : Has the pandemic made you assess your business model? What changes will you be making?
MM : Even though the market for dance related events is still on the rise, and I have made a comfortable living off of hosting events and parties, I have always wanted to branch out into something stable. I did not want to be in my 50's and still trying to chase after that next gig to get my next paycheck. Neither did I want to feel salty about losing out on a gig to another person. I have always hated the negative feelings welling up inside of me whenever I see someone other than myself hosting a high profile event. I know it is a wack mentality to have, and it is something I have been working on, but that is something for another day.
I consider myself very lucky because prior to the pandemic, I was already in talks with a company on becoming a consultant, as they had interest in expanding their business into streetwear as well as dance education. They wanted my input as I have started to become more familiar with the China scene, and also my strong experience overseas. I had spent a couple of months with the company in late 2019 as a trial period, seeing how they ran the operation, and had decided only to play a part-time role. I still valued the flexibility and “freedom” that being a freelancer afforded. There were many times when I was offered a full time position, but I was not ready to get back into a 9-5 situation that I lived through during my time in Hong Kong.
After many high profile events were either being postponed or cancelled during the first two months of the new year, I really started to take things into perspective. After talking things out with several close friends, as well as meeting up with the company a few more times, with them offering me an even more attractive package, I came to terms that even though I had enjoyed living the “Hip Hop” life, it really doesn't mean a damn thing if I was remembered as the GOAT of event MCs. If at the end of it all I could not even provide myself with the basic necessities of life – roof over my head, food in my stomach, and some money put away for a rainy day; there are too many cautionary tales in our industry. I simply did not want to be another one.
It was then I decided to switch gears and take all my experience and integrate it with a more stable platform. This way I will be able to generate a stable revenue stream without worrying that I will have to take on gigs that were underpaying me simply because I needed the money. Now I will be able to support the actual events that I think have a positive effect on in the community as a whole.
Photo 3 : Mike Magik and Taiwanese crew in Spain.
SPITGAN : What positive changes do you envision happening to the industry or society in general? Or hope will happen?
MM : If I am to be brutally honest, I really don’t think that this pandemic is the global catastrophe that will unite the world, and which we will enjoy and unprecedented period of peace and technological advancement. However I see this pandemic as what the 80s did to Hip Hop culture, and I’m referring to China specifically here. What I mean is many of these Mickey Mouse studios and dancers, who are really in for just the money, get taken out of the equation, and leave the ones that are more well-versed in their craft to pass on knowledge. As the global lockdown still stands, I hope that events in China will give more opportunities to the local talent, which in turn will help them sharpen their skills and uplift the level of the scene as a whole.
SPITGAN : We are now all on our own 'islands'. What music is getting you through?
MM : I have been really getting into J-Pop or J-Rock, since I have been catching up on my anime the last few months. I find that a lot of the theme songs can really lift my spirits up when I feel down, or think that I am missing out on parties and stuff like that. I would normally love to chill to some Boom Bap, or RnB, but that makes me want to dress up and head to the club haha.
SPITGAN : As part of this article can you take 2 photos of yourself representing you during this time or your feelings towards the future?
MM : The two photos I have included pretty much describes what I have been doing over the last few months, as well as a summary of my feelings towards how I see the pandemic. The first (Photo 1) would be a picture my mother took of my when we had a barbeque at home. When the picture was taken there was a massive puff of smoke coming from the chicken and the wind decided to blow it straight into my eyes! I did not want to have to retake the picture again since I was busy minding the food, so I powered through it and gave her my best smile. I think it is important for us to sometimes keep smiling and moving forward and hope for the best in life, no matter what the situation is. When life gives you lemons, go out and buy other herb and spices and make the best damn chicken and share it with the ones you love.
The second picture (Photo 2) is one I took a while back during a trip in Japan. We were at semi-private onsen joint, and I simply could not resist taking a picture with a beautiful sunset in the background. It is a reminder for us that even as the sun sets for the day, we will eventually be able to see it again tomorrow. No matter how much you try to rush it, the sun will not be seen until it is time once again. I feel that it is relevant to all of us, especially during these trying times.
Photo 4 : Mike Magik getting it turnt in Korea somewheres.
Two weeks later, President Macron announced the lockdown would start on March 17th, at noon. It’s now been about 2 weeks, we can go out for more than 1 hour and further than 1km from our home without any authorization. It’s quite a relief even if we know that nothing is certain…
SPITGAN : How do you feel about your country's response in general, and specifically to your industry?
VZ : I think the answer was quite appropriate, the government has set up various exceptional measures to support companies. Now, something has to be done to help the medical staff that have shown so much commitment, and have managed to address this historic health crisis.
Regarding my industry (advertising film) I’m not aware of any particular measure.
Masks for everyone, Paris.
SPITGAN : What have you been doing during this global lockdown period?
VZ : As it was impossible to shoot, my partner and I took advantage of the situation to work on some stuff we usually do not have enough time to focus on… We revamped our website www.kartelproduction.com, we took online classes to acquire new skills, and we finalized the application file for a Sustainability Label (that we are proud to say we obtained), etc…
SPITGAN : What's the first thing you gonna do when you can move freely?
VZ : The 1st thing I did when we were allowed to go out further than 1km, 2 weeks ago, was take a bike ride with my boyfriend to Le Bois de Vincennes – a wooded area on the Paris border – I was in desperate need of Nature !!
When we’ll be allowed to travel further than 100km I’ll definitly visit my family. It’s been almost 4 months that I haven’t seen them. Otherwise, I’m really looking forward to the re-opening of restaurants, bars and cafés!!!
SPITGAN : Has the pandemic made you assess your business model? What changes will you be making?
VZ : The Covid-19 crisis has shown us how fragile we are and how important it is to take care of our planet. We’ll pay attention more than ever to the impact we have on Nature through our business. This is something that was already very important for us. Sustainable criteria will be one of the most important to take in account for us moving forward.
Véronique's neighborhood in Paris.
SPITGAN : What positive changes do you envision happening to the industry or society in general? Or hope will happen?
VZ : My background is in the fashion industry and today most of my clients are from the fashion, luxury, and beauty industry. I deeply hope that this industry will find the way to reduce its carbon print and impact on the environment. In the last few years we’ve been able to see the rise of some great initiatives. Most of them come from independent labels and designers like Marine Serre. Now it’s great to hear some new voices, more ‘traditionnal’ ones, entering the debate : Giorgio Armani, Jean Touitou from APC, Dries Van Noten…, they are all calling for a change in the industry to make it more humanized and sustainable. I hope they will be heard!
SPITGAN : We are now all on our own 'islands'. What music is getting you through?
VZ : I’m lucky to have a « personnal DJ » at home as my boyfriend is a music lover. We’ve listened a lot to a Michel Gaubert’s mixes (https://soundcloud.com/
Are you in the fashion field? How have you been affected? What are you hoping will change for the better when we get through this pandemic? Leave us a comment we would love to hear from you!
SPITGAN : Has the pandemic made you assess your business model? What changes will you be making?
Continuing our series 'Covid-19 Response.' We are asking our creative friends how they are holding up, but more importantly we want to speak about the future of their industries, as we look forward to beating this pandemic. Are there positives to be taken from this collective experience? What are we contributing, and how will their respective industries change?
The Italian North was one of the hardest hit regions in Europe, and the first on a large scale. News imagery was bleak and very austere measures were put into place to control the epidemic.
Today's installment, we catch up with creative director Marta Grossi. We met Marta in Hong Kong and she is a creative one. The artistic mind of the Banana Project and live soul, it has been hard to keep up with her. Since she has had to stay put for a sec, it was a good time to catch our breathe and catch up with her!
SPITGAN : Hi Marta, long time no see. Introduce yourself to our readers. Tell us about yourself.
Marta Grossi : I’m Marta Grossi an Italian Creative Director and Artist. I spent the last 9 years in Hong Kong, exploring Asia, and I have recently returned to Europe and Italy to reconnect with my roots. I am a dreamer, a curious soul and an explorer.
SG : What is Cusco Cocaine?
EY : Well, I don’t know if you know, but Peru has some of the strongest cocaine on the planet. Like 94% pure shit, and Cusco was the city I was in. So I guess I’m describing the song as being that dope, that it’s like pure cocaine.
SG : From your limited taste of freedom, what spots you recommend in Peru?
EY : We mostly hit local mom and pop restos, honestly those are the best, the little shacks along the beach in Lima have the best ceviche I’ve ever tasted.
SG : Was it hard to get back to the US?
EY : We were on a list with the government to get on a humanitarian flight for the entire 17 days, and we had to pay the US government back double what a regular flight would be. Plus since there were no taxis or cars allowed on the road we had to walk the 1.5 hours from our hotel to the airport with all our bags and shit! But fuck it we were glad to go home.
We had to get to the bottom of this brilliant marriage of worlds. Here what the chief conspirators had to say. Mr. Patrick So, Creative Director of Frequent Flyer, and Jarno Leppanen and Key Chow of KA WA KEY, in first person below.
]]>We had to get to the bottom of this brilliant marriage of worlds. Here what the chief conspirators had to say. Mr. Patrick So, Creative Director of Frequent Flyer, and Jarno Leppanen and Key Chow of KA WA KEY, in first person below.
本地設計聽得多,但設計師品牌你又識幾多?今次要介紹的兩個本地品牌一個主打實用性;一個主打藝術性。包袋品牌Frequent Flyer以實用性旅行用包箱為主,他們的旅行包就像百寶袋一樣,再多東西都放得入。而時裝品牌KA WA KEY則在時裝舞台上發光發亮,什至創出自已的布料。不知道當兩個截然不同的品牌走在一起會產生什麼效果?看看Frequent Flyer的Patrick和KA WA KEY的Key之間的對話吧!
<< 中文譯本在英文之後 >>
SPITGAN : Hey Patrick, tell us about Frequent Flyer.
PATRICK SO : Frequent Flyer is the name of people with a modern lifestyle. Active travelers willing to explore the world with their senses. Frequent Flyer is dedicated to the design and development of thoughtful products to accompany you on each journey.
SP : Tell us how you were able to register such a great name for a travel bag brand like Frequent Flyer?
PS : We created the brand, thinking of a golden era, when the Kai Tak Airport was still in operation. Kai Tak’s reputation was world famous, as all the pilots would have to be super-focused with nerves of steel to land at that airport. Planes nearly touched the buildings before hitting the runway! Great memories, and amazing moments. It required great skill and technique. It was very exciting! I think many kids have a dream to be a pilot, or work in the air. Being in the travel goods industry, we are very lucky get this brand registered as our brand.
SP : Apart from most HK brands, you proudly proclaim to be from HK. Do you think there is a stigma for brands to say they from Hong Kong?
PS : Yes totally, we are so proud of Hong Kong. From a small fishing village to a global financial and economic centre, HongKongers fight against all difficulties with limited resources. We work so hard in the pursuit of a happy life. There will always be a “taking-off after landing” motto in us; encouraging all the people, including me.
See the full collection on French Vogue : Frequent Flyer X KA WA KEY
SP : Tell us about working with KA WA KEY? Was it your first fashion collaboration?
PS : KA WA KEY is the first fashion collaboration with Frequent Flyer. Our friend Nick D lined up both parties. KA WA KEY is very strong in the garment field and we specialize in the bag industry. Also, one of their founders is from Hong Kong. The collaboration was smooth and quick. Both parties understood what was needed. We completely trusted each other. So here is the collection we worked out together. It's great!
SP : We noticed some sharp looking bags in your latest collection. Can you talk a bit about that?
KWK : We collaborated with Frequent Flyer, amazing Hong Kong based bag brand and created an inclusive collection of dive bags. These bags are designed exclusively for Frequent Flyer and they feature some interesting fabric choices and print designs. We wanted to have the same vibe for this collaboration as for our AW19 collection. All the collaboration bags were designed with the same inspirations. For the bags we used some eco fur to create soft, fluffy and cute bags and some of our original hand painted prints.
SP : Then tell us about your FW19 collection. What were you inspired by this season?
KWK : Our AW19 season is call “Cowboy Who Cried Wasabi Tears”. Haha, sound interesting? Or perhaps a bit weird? This collection is sensual and imaginative, a KA WA KEY interpretation of cowboy wear and western wear. The idea is based on our International Woolmark Prize, semifinal capsule collection. We like to play with sensuality and erotic ideas, and implement these in our designs.
SP : Tell us about the FF styles you worked with. Things we do not see through photo representation. Are they quite robust? Functional?
KWK : All the bag are super good quality and functional. They’ve been tested by us (haha)! All the bags are very practical for us as we travel a lot and as the size range varies from cute small bags, rucksacks to cabin bags, there is a bag for every occasion, and of course they look good and interesting. They also have interesting features as some of the bags fold off to a suit bag, where you can pack you suit and other smart essentials, then fold it back to a bag, super handy!
SP : As you travel often yourselves, what are the essentials that you must bring with?
KWK : The essential are: toothbrush, passport, wallet, phone, computer and clean undies (haha). Everything else is extra. But of course some versatile clothing you can wear in several different kinds of situations.
SP : Patrick will you continue to pursue collaborations in the near future? Who would be some people you would like to collaborate with?
PS : Yes, definitely. Frequent Flyer encourages people connections and culture exchange. People can learn from our products not only about the workmanship or the design, but also the brand stories behind them. The culture exchange from different countries and backgrounds is always interesting and meaningful. We believe different kinds of collaboration will have different chemistries, so we are excited for any new opportunities. However, if we were to choose one to collaborate with, I think a vintage brand would be interesting. Something that gives people a feel of time travel.
SP : What are the essentials a good travel bag should have?
KWK : Practicality, durability and the looks! All our collaboration bags have these features, so from now on we are going to travel in KA WA KEY x Frequent Flyer style! We have room for all the essentials and more.
SP : We notice the masks have come off. Is this a sign of self-confidence now? A move to an identification of Ka Wa Key individuality?
KWK : Haha, the masks might return. Not sure if they’ve ever been a sign of self-confidence or lack of it? There is always something very interesting and sensual when certain bits of the human body are not shown. The same applies in stories, it leaves freedom to us to imagine what underneath might be or what might happen. Then again it’s a shame to hide the beautiful faces of the models. However we will always be friend of face masks (lol) and mystery.
SP : If streetwear was not such a popular style currently would your collections continue to take influence from them?
KWK : I think yes, as we base our designs on our own experiences, which are based on every day life. Streetwear is everywhere. In the streets of every city whether trend or not. Music, films, theater, different subcultures, sports and even the way we speak has been affected by “street cultures”.
SP : What Hip Hop artists have worn your clothes?
KWK : Lil Yachty, Ghetts, and GASHi a few to mention.
SP : What makes HK a city to be proud of?
PS : I think the wisdom and optimism that people have, the city never stops changing. You can feel it, how dynamic it is! Sometimes it sad because of some political issues, but you can feel the city continues to keep reforming and growing. Just like kids growing from errors and learning, which I’m so proud of.
SP : Give us a hint of what to expect from you guys in the near future?
PS : On the business side, we will expand our global sales network. Product-wise we will open up a new segment for shoes. But we always will launch our newest products in Hong Kong!
KWK : We are going to head back to New York for the NYFW Men’s in June to present our SS20 collection and we are super excited. SO everyone in NYC come and see our presentation! After NYC we are heading back to London and then to Paris. Design-wise we are going to present some KA WA KEY sensuality and soft masculinity everywhere!
<< 中文譯本在下面 >>
SPITGAN : Patrick,你先介紹一下Frequent Flyer是什麼吧。
PATRICK SO:Frequent Flyer意指崇尚品味生活的人,他們熱愛用感官探索世界。 我們致力於設計和開發周邊旅遊產品,我們希望Frequent Flyer的產品能陪伴著您探索人生每一段旅途。
SP : 當初是怎麼想到Frequent Flyer這麼好的名字?
PS:當我們創立品牌時,想起香港的黃金時代,這是我們很美好的回憶。當時啟德機場仍在營運,猷記得啟德聞名世界的原因是因為所有的飛行員都必須高度集中才能降落到這個機場,在降落跑道之前,飛機幾乎觸及到附近的建築物,飛行員需要有很高的技術才能安全降落,每次當我想起這一幕也讓我心中非常激動!我想很多小孩因著這個原因而夢想成為一名飛行員或在從事航空工作。我們亦感到非常幸運能把Frequent Flyer註冊為我們的品牌名稱。
SP : 你看起來很自豪Frequent Flyer是個香港品牌。
PS:是的,我們為香港感到驕傲。從一個小漁村到全球金融和經濟中心,香港人用有限的資源來應對所有困難。為追求幸福生活而努力工作,我們不怕困難,就像飛機一樣總會 “在降落後必會再起飛”,這令人非常鼓舞。
Keep up with the latest on INSTAGRAM from Frequent Flyer!
SP : 這次與KA WA KEY的合作,是你第一次跟時尚品牌合作嗎?
PS:無錯,這次合作是透過我們的共同朋友Nick介紹。KA WA KEY的其中一位始創人是香港人,他們在服裝領域上非常成功,而我們則專注於包袋行業。我們這次的合作非常順利和迅速,雙方都很明白大家需要什麼,我們完全互相信任。我覺得這次的聯成系列,非常棒!
SP : Key可以分享一下這次合作嗎?
KWK:今季我們與Frequent Flyer的合作,我們專門設計了一系列不同面料和印花的袋。因為我們希望這個Cross-over系列和我們的秋冬19系列有著相同的氛圍,所以兩邊的靈感其實都是相同的。不過袋子就用上了一些環保皮草去造出又柔軟、又蓬鬆的感覺,加上我們原創的手繪印花。
SP : 既然如此,不如談談你最新的秋冬19系列吧,今季是從那得到啟發的呢?
KWK:我們的2019的秋冬系列叫“Cowboy Who Cried Wasabi Tears”,哈哈,聽上去很趣怪吧。這個想法是從我們在Woolmark半準決賽時的膠囊系列中萌生出來的。系列以牛仔和西裝,加入KA WA KEY的感性和想像力而成,並在設計中實現性感和色情的想法。
SP : 講下Frequent Flyer這個品牌的風格吧。任何我們在相片中看不到的事情。他們是很功能性的嗎?有很強風格的一個品牌?
S:他已經通過了我們的測試哈哈,他們所有的袋子都是十分優質的功能性設計!對我們而言所有的袋都很實用,因為我們很常去旅行,無論是可愛的小包包還是帆布背包什麼旅行箱包都一應俱全,不同的情況都可以用上他們的袋子。而且還有些很有趣的功能,例如他們的行李袋可以折成西裝袋,然後包起其他日常必備品,再變回袋的模樣,方便又有趣!
SP :當你旅行時,你必須攜帶些什麼?
KWK:不可缺少的當然是牙刷、護照、錢包、手機、電腦和清潔內衣哈哈,其他東西都是額外的。但當然在不同情況下可能要多帶套任何場合都穿到的多功能衣服。
SP : Patrick會否繼續嘗試不同的合作呢?你希望與那些人合作呢?
PS: 絕對會。 Frequent Flyer非常鼓勵人與人之間應有更多的互動和文化交流。透過合作大家不但可以從產品中看到多樣的工藝和設計,還可以了解到品牌背後的故事、國家文化和背景,這些交流都是非常有趣和有意義。我們相信透過合作會產生不同的化學作用。
我們非常期待任何新的合作機會,如要我們選擇一個合作品牌,我會認為復古品牌最為合適,因可以讓用家透過產品感受到歲月的痕跡和時光的味道。
SP : 一個好的旅行包應該是怎樣的?
KWK:要有實用性、耐用性和外觀,而我們KA WA KEY x Frequent Flyer的箱包全部都有齊這些功能,所以從現在開始我們將以KA WA KEY x Frequent Flyer風格旅行!
SP : 我注意到KA WA KEY在今季脫下面具了。這是代表現在的自信嗎?還是KA WA KEY的個性將會有些改變?
KWK:哈哈,面具有機會回歸的。我也不確定這是否代表「他」有表現出自信或「他」者曾經缺乏過自信。但當人體的某些部分被掩蓋時,總是很有趣和充滿慾望的。就好像我們過去的故事一樣,讓我們可以自由地想像面具下到底是什麼又或者可以發生什麼的事。不過要再去隱藏模特兒們美麗的面孔無疑是種浪費。但是面具和這種神秘將會繼續是我們的朋友。
SP : 如果街頭服裝沒有流行起來,那你今季的作品會受繼續受到街頭服裝的影響嗎?
KWK:我想是的。因為設計應建基於自已的經驗,而經驗就是基於日常生活,而街頭服裝無處不在。不過無論這是趨勢與否,每個城市都有自已獨特的風格,音樂、電影、戲劇、不同的亞文化、體育、甚至我們說話的方式其實都受到街頭文化的影響。
SP : 那些 Hip Hop的藝人有穿過你的衣服?
KWK:Lil Yachty、Ghetts和GASHi等等。
SP : 是什麼讓香港成為一個值得驕傲的城市?
PS: 我認為人們擁有的智慧和樂觀,城市永遠不會停止變化。 你可以感受到它,它是多麼的動態! 有時因為一些政治問題而感到悲傷,但你可以感覺到這個城市繼續不斷改革和發展。 就像孩子從錯誤和學習中成長,我為此感到驕傲。
SP : 你們將會有甚麼新計劃?
PS:在業務方面,我們將會繼續擴展全球銷售網絡。而產品方面,我們將會開拓鞋類產品,所有新產品我們將會在香港率先發售!
KWK:我們非常興奮將於6月回到紐約參加NYFW男裝展,展示我們的SS20系列。所以如果大家在紐約的話過來看我們的發佈吧!在紐約之後,我們將返回倫敦,然後再去巴黎。在設計方面,我們將呈現一些KA WA KEY的性感和柔和的陽剛之氣。期待吧!
]]>
Fly photos by : Jody Stvrk @JodyStvrk
Interview : Nick D @spitgan_magazine
Translation : Jose Chu @spitgan_magazine
「Dirty Rice : Deux」已經發行,從這句歌詞中你可以看見Noah-O對這項目有多期盼和渴望: 「Pop shots like the 4th of July, Deserve a max contract like Kawhi!」
「Dirty Rice : Deux」是由MC Noah - O和他們製作人Fan Ran推出的,當中有10首歌。他們都是來自Richmond, Virginia的。最初從我們音樂編輯Jordan C的JULY TOP10EN 聽到Noah -O的「FLESH OF MY FLESH」系列。當中「64W」讓我留意到他,以輕柔的字句交代生命中最誠實的心意和事件,是在嘻哈作品中很少見的。
從他的新專輯中,這些畫龍點睛的字句和押韻,你都可以見到他作為MC的多樣性,還有他的伙伴Fan Ran。我們最喜歡的歌包括Deux,有Meth Lab Monday,S.A.B.和與Conway合作的Sidewalks。從他的作品,你會知道他的這一枝筆就應該受到尊重的。哦對了!他還是半個菲律賓人,對於我們總愛發掘亞洲事物的雜誌而言,當然要訪問他。一起從他的文字認識他吧!
<< 中文譯本在英文之後 >>
As soon as "Dirty Rice: Deux" hits, it's charged up! Noah-O sounds hella hungry on this, jumpin' out the gate with, 'Pop shots like the 4th of July, Deserve a max contract like Kawhi!'.
"Dirty Rice: Deux" is a 10 song project from MC Noah-O and producer Fan Ran coming outta Richmond, Virginia, to get you up to speed. We were first introduced to the lyrical stylings of Noah-O by Jordan C., in our JULY TOP 10EN 'FLESH OF MY FLESH' EDITION. "64W" was an introspective track, tackling a big and honest message with crafty swordplay. We thought that was homie's lane, he was so nice with it!
This new project though, shows his versatility as an MC, the punchlines, and fly rhymes side, and it's a project with running mate Fan Ran not to be slept on! We especially feelin' tracks like Deux, Meth Lab Monday, S.A.B. and Sidewalks featuring Conway. Yeah, Machine (bxtch!), so you know Noah's pen game is respected. Oh BTW homie is also half Filipino, yeah it's like that so we gots to ride with the Asians! Know him in his own words.
SP : Yo Noah O what's goodie? What does the O stand for?
NOAH-O: The O stands for my last name.
SP : Tell us where you from? Where you get your style from?
NO : I am from Richmond, Virginia but was born, and spent part of my life in San Francisco/Daly City, California. I get my rhyme from all of those environments. I definitely grew up influenced by Bay Area and West Coast rap in general then later on by Down South and East Coast rap. My style is a reflection of all those influences growing up in different environments, the West Coast, Virginia is the South and also the bottom of the East Coast.
SP : What's happenin' in your neck of the woods Hip Hop-wise?
NO : There is a lot going out in Virginia right now and Richmond especially which is the Capital of Virginia. There is a big art scene, so there are a lot of creative people in general working with one another. We have an appreciation for underground lyrical rap, as well as Trap music. It is all equally represented out there. Virginia traditionally has broken doors down sonically thanks to producers from here.
SP : You the Trillipino with roots in the Bay? What were the early sounds that got you into Hip Hop?
NO : Originally I am from the Bay, so seeing that independent rap hustle. Thanks to pioneers like E40, Too Short, even MC Hammer, they paved the way. I.M.P, RBL Posse, Messy Marv, Mac Mall, Rappin' 4 Tay, those were people I looked up to. Over time I saw Master P, he started in the Bay and helped solidify the South as a region. I also was influenced by Jay Z, Wu Tang, D'Angelo, Outkast/Dungeon Family, Rap-A-Lot, Suave House, Nas, 2pac, Big Pun...Hip Hop in general.
SP : Tell us about your latest project Dirty Rice 2. What tracks are your favorites?
NO : Dirty Rice : Deux is the second project of me and producer Fan Ran's catalog. We released Dirty Rice 1 in 2017. Just a gritty dusty Hip Hop project for fans of that style of ra. Not a lot of hooks just bars and dope production, a really straight forward album for fans that want to hear me talk my shit. I like Cereal & Silk Milk, and Sidewalks a lot, also S.A.B.
SP : We know you from our TOP10EN through our music editor Jordan C., and the introspective track 64W. The record (Dirty Rice 2) impresses with your competitive lyrical side too. What do you enjoy writing more?
NO : It's all part of me so I don't have a preference for one over the other. I am conscious though to keep the Dirty Rice projects sticking to a certain formula. A lot of those more introspective tracks come natural to me , I am not even trying to be over deep. I am a thinker and when I hear the beat whatever flows out I just let it spill onto the track.
SP : There is sadness in your music. You speak often on overcoming a lot. Care to share some of these situations with us?
NO : It's just real life. As a writer and human being in general, the more I learn myself and grow as a person, the easier it is to put some of my experiences into words. As a child or growing up you don't really have time to process things, especially if you grow up fast or experience traumatic events, so I am just trying to articulate and make sense of these events. As I make sense of them I am also trying to speak to the listener, those who may have been through similar things may find solace in knowing someone else has been through the same things and overcame them. Also, to those who haven't or don't know me I am telling them don't judge me until you hear my story, know my past to understand why I move how I move or what drives me.
I had a diverse upbringing, was middle class, lower middle class and sometimes we were poor. I didn't have it easy by any means, and was exposed to certain negative things (drugs and violence) that kids should be shielded from. My parents did their best. I had a child in high school and another kid at 19, got custody of my oldest son at 21 so I was a young Father. I had friends and loved ones that died and went to prison. I am thankful that I had music as an outlet to keep me from going down the wrong path.
SP : Who is Fan Ran?
NO : Fan Ran is a dope Hip Hop producer and ill MC from Petersburg/Richmond, VA. He is co-owner of a label Gritty City Records. I consider him to be a friend and brother in this music game, he's a solid dude with integrity which is rare.
SP : Who are the Analog Suspects?
NO : Analog Suspects is a group comprised of me and producer DJ Mentos. We have two projects, one is my album, "The Rain", which he produced and, "Transmission 001", which is Analog Suspects first album.
CHECK OUT THE ALBUM HERE : DIRTY RICE: DEUX
SP : Yo you're Philipino? What are your roots?
NO : Yes sir. My mother was Filipina she was born in California and my grandparents are from the Philippines. My dad, was Italian American, and his dad's family was from Sicily, his mom's side from England originally.
SP : Are all Asians just some stylish muthafxckas?
NO : You know it bro we gotta stay fresh and up on the latest fashion.
SP : You got some dope merch. You thinking of doing more in fashion?
NO : Thank you, I plan on continuing to release merch, and really streetwear and things that appeal to people who like vintage/sneaker/streetwear culture. I am t-shirts and jeans type of dude but maybe one day it will evolve into more of a high fashion sense. I am going to keep dropping, t's, hoodies, hats those types of pieces.
SP : What does it take to be a successful rapper nowadays? Are 'skills' enough?NO : I think that to succeed in rap you have to have heart, be original, and be personable or approachable to a certain extent. I don't think skills are enough now if that was the case a lot of people with just skill would be rich. You have to know who you are, what you represent and what message you are trying to convey to your audience. I also look up to the hustlers, the self made entrepreneurs, so to me that is important because I want to control my own destiny and my success not be in the hands of another person.
SP : You got some impressive cats on Dirty Rice 2, peeps we know like Conway, but tell us about the others, Dusty Reynolds & Hongo 1, Big Kahuna OG, Fly Anakin, God Goldin...
NO : Dusty Reynolds is from Lower East Side NYC and producer/DJ Hongo 1 is from Santa Ana, California. They are also a group called Santana Bros, and live in NYC. They are part of the Charged Up Ent. family. They dropped a self titled project last year.
Big Kahuna and Fly Anakin are part of a collective based in Richmond, Virginia called Mutant Academy that are making noise. If you aren't hip, check out their work, they are hella consistent and have a bright future.
God Goldin is the homie out of Richmond and originally from NY. He has a dope vision and speaks from a pure place musically. Definitely one to watch for.
SP : Michael Millions mixed your record?
NO : Yes indeed, Michael Millions has mixed and mastered just about all of my releases since 2016. He is a dope artist in his own right and a vital part of my career.
SP : Name your TOP 5 Asian Hip Hop artists.
NO : Off the top of my head, I would say Chad Hugo. Apl D Ap, and Bambu for the doors they have opened as Filipinos. Stupid Young, is dope and I like P Lo as well.
SP : Tell us what we can expect from you in the near future.
NO : Hongo 1 is releasing his producer series, "Live Poultry", and I am the featured artists on the first installment. That's an 8 track release from us that will be dropping soon. I am also finishing up my solo album, "TRILLipino", which should come this spring. In addition, I am looking to drop another Analog Suspects project and Dirty Rice 3 this year. More merch coming soon, and you can keep up with me online @ChargedUpNoahO on all social media sites or log on to www.noah-o.com and subscribe to youtube.com/ChargedUpEnt!
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SPITGAN : Hello Noah O! 請問O代表什麼?
NOAH-O : O 是代表我的姓氏。
SP : 你是來自那的?你在那建立你的個人風格?
NO : 我來自美國維吉尼亞州的里奇蒙,不過我在三藩市和舊金山出生和生活。所以我的創作都是源自這些地方。我自小就收到灣區和西岸的說唱影響,後來融入了不少南方和東岸的雪場影響。所以我覺得我的風格反映了我在不同地方的成長。
SP: 你現在的嘻哈圈子情況如何?
NO : 現在Virginia有很多活動,尤其是這裏的首都Richmood。我們這裏的藝術圈子很大,所以有很多創作者都會互相合作。我們的地下抒情說唱和Trap音樂都做得十分之好。很感激這邊的Producers,讓我們能在此處發光發熱。
SP :Yo The Trillipino 是源自灣區的嗎?一開始是什麼聲音讓你投入了嘻哈?
NO : 我原本就是來自灣區的,所以見到很多像E40、Too Short和MC Hammer這些開荒牛,他們為我們鋪了一條很好走的路。我也很留意I.M.P、RBL Posse、Messy Marv、Mac Mall和Rappin 4 Tay。後來Master P也開始會在灣區的工作,更加鞏固了南部的圈子。我也受到Jay Z、Wu Tang、D Angelo、Outkast/Dungeon Family、Rap a Lot、Suave House、Nas、2Pac、Big Pun等人影響。
SP : 告訴我們您最新的項目Dirty Rice2。您最喜歡的曲目是什麼?
NO : Dirty Rice:Deux是我+製作人Fan Ran目錄中的第二個項目,我們於2017年發布了Dirty Rice 1。對於酒吧和濃湯的製作並沒有太多的幫助,對於想要聽我說我的爛話的粉絲來說,這是一張非常直接的專輯。我喜歡穀物和絲綢牛奶,人行道也很特別
SP : 我們是透過我們的音樂編輯Jordan C.和64W了解您。唱片(Dirty Rice 2)中的歌詞讓我們留下深刻印象。您最喜歡寫什麼?
NO : 全部,我沒有一個比另一個更偏愛。我有意識地使Dirty Rice項目堅持一定的公式。對我來說,很多音軌都是很自然的,我什至不打算深入。我是一個思想家,當我聽到節拍時,無論有什麼聲音流出,我都會順其自然。
SP : 你的音樂好像帶點悲傷,提及很多克服困難的過程。你可以分享這些情況嗎?
NO : 這只是現實生活,作為一個作家和一個人。通常我越了解自己並成長為一個人,就越容易將自己的一些經歷轉化為文字。 小時候或長大後,您實際上沒有時間去處理事情,尤其是如果您長大或經歷過創傷事件。因此我只是想表達並理解這些事件。 當我理解它們時,我也在嘗試與聽眾交談,那些經歷過類似事情的人可能會感到安慰,知道其他人也經歷了相同的事情並克服了。 對於那些不了解我的人,我只是告訴他們在您聽到我的故事之前不要對我進行評判,了解我的過去,以了解我為什麼要這樣。
我的成長經歷很多,從中產到低層,甚至可以說得上很窮。但無論如何我都不容易暴露於某些負面的事物(毒品和暴力)下。孩子們應該受到保護,我的父母也盡了最大的努力。 我在高中時便有一個孩子,在19歲時又有一個孩子,在21歲時由我的大兒子監護,所以我還是一個年輕的父親。 我有朋友和親人去世併入獄。 我很感激我有音樂可以阻止我走錯路。
SP : 誰是Fan Ran?
NO : Fan Ran是個很酷的嘻嘻製作人和出色的Mc。他來自Petersburg/Richmond,VA。他是Gritty City Records標籤的其中一個發起人。 我認為他是這款音樂遊戲中的朋友和兄弟,他是一個很罕見的人,一個堅實而又誠實的傢伙。
SP : 誰是Analog Suspects?
NO : Analog Suspects由我和製片人DJ Mentos組成。 我們有兩個項目,一個是我製作的專輯《 The Rain》,另一個是《 Transmission 001》,這是Analog Suspects的第一張專輯。
SP : 對了,你是菲律賓人?
NO : 是的。 我的母親是菲律賓人,她出生於California,祖父母來自菲律賓。 我的父親是意大利裔美國人,他的父親一家來自西西里,母親則來自英國。
SP : 所有亞洲人都只是時尚的muthafxckas嗎?
NO : 您知道嗎,我們必須保持最新並保持最前衛的時尚。
SP : 你有些很酷的商品。 您是否想在時尚方面做得更多?
NO : 謝謝,我計劃繼續發布商品和真正的街頭服飾,以及吸引喜歡復古/運動鞋/街頭服飾文化的人的商品。 我是T恤和牛仔褲的花花公子,但也許有一天會演變成一種更高級的時尚感。 我會繼續設計像連帽衫、帽子等這類衣服。
SP : 如今成為一名成功的說唱歌手需要什麼? “技能”夠嗎?
NO : 我認為,要想在說唱方面取得成功,就必須在一定程度上要有一顆心,保持原創,風度翩翩及平易近人。 我認為如果只有技巧就可以的話,那麼很多擁有純正技能的人就會變得富有。 您必須知道自己是誰,代表什麼以及試圖傳達給聽眾的信息。 我也很看重那些騙人的人,他們是自己創造的企業家,對我來說這很重要,因為我想控制自己的命運,而我的成功不掌握在另一個人的手中。
SP : 在Dirty Rice中我們見到有些很有趣的名字,像是Dusty Reynolds & Hongo 1、Big Kahuna OG、Fly Anakin、God Goldin…
NO : Dusty Renoylds來自紐約下東城,製片人/ dj Hongo 1來自加利福尼亞州聖安娜。 他們也是一個名為Santana Bros的團體,居住在紐約市。 它們是Charged Up Ent系列的一部分。 他們去年放棄了一個自己的項目。
Big Kahuna和Fly Anakin是在Richmond, Virginia的Mutant Academy成員,他們正在上位中。 你應該看看他們的作品,他們會保持水準,並擁有光明的未來。
God Goldin是我們的朋友,最初來自紐約。 他對嘻哈音樂有濃厚的文化,有不同角度的看法,絕對值得留意。
SP : Michael Millions為你的唱片混音了嗎?
NO : 是的,的確如此,自2016年以來他幾乎混音並掌握了我所有的專輯。他是一個很厲害的藝術家,是我職業生涯中至關重要的一個人。
SP : 給我們五個你最喜歡的亞洲嘻哈歌手吧。
No : 馬上想到的是Chad Hugo。Apl D Ap和Bambu也為菲律賓人打開了嘻哈的大門。Stupid Young和P Lo我也很喜歡。
SP : 告訴我們我們將能期待你什麼事?
NO : Hongo 1正在發行他的製作人系列Live Poultry,而我是第一部作品中的合作的藝人。那就是我們發行的8首單曲,很快就會發行。 我也在整理我的個人專輯TRILLipino,該專輯應該在今年春天發行。 另外,我希望今年有另一個項目和“DirtyRice 3”。 我即將推出更多商品,您可以在所有社交媒體網站上通過@ChargedUpNoahO與我保持聯繫,或者登錄www.noah-o.com,並訂閱youtube.com/ChargedUpEnt 。
Ever felt the need for a Chanel jacket in your wardrobe? Well gender-fluid Hong Kong brand, DEMO likes to work in a tweed that is very visually similar. Why not? It's not like it's the sole provision of Coco's either! It's cool to see the various iterations that Derek Chan, the designer of DEMO has put it through, and we finally had the opportunity to sit down for a short Q&A with him!
SPITGAN : First of all, I would like to ask you about your inspiration for your SS20 collection.
Derek Chan : The collection “Fragrance Fade” is inspired by a love for Cantonese opera. The SS20 collection tells a story of love and loss. It references the piece, 'Fragrance Sacrifice', a poetic and romantic story of two lovers who sacrifice themselves for their love, and turn into a pair of beautiful flowers. You can see there is a lot of opera elements in the design details, including floral panels and moons. The contrasting colours convey the shades of the forest and the light of the moon. Our gender-fluid designs feature our new mastery of materials with tweed, used in fringes, cuffs and collars.
SP: You have mentioned in the past that everyone’s inspirations stems from their desires. What is your desire?
DC : My desire is to show the versatility, and diversity of men through clothing and styling. I am bored that men are always restricted by these social boundaries. We are always framed under a certain stereotype or ideal constructs. This break-the-boundary concept is one of the core directions of DEMO.
SP : You gained popularity in a very short time. Were you lucky, or were you prepare for it?
DC : I don’t think I gain popularity in a very short time haha. Compare to some good designers who garnered attention and popularity through some renowned contests; I think I am more like a step-by-step person, and I like to be. This makes me more mature and sophisticated.
I won’t say I am lucky or 100% prepared, but I will say I am well prepared and have luck because those are the factors to be successful. Like what Chinese say, ' 天時地利人和 '.
SP : Because of your quick succession, are you worried that there will be another brand to replace you soon?
DC : I am not worried to be replaced, but I worry that I am not doing good enough compared to my past me. I'd rather to compare myself instead of others. I think what make a brand successful is the uniqueness. Uniqueness makes you irreplaceable. Your uniqueness should be something related to your spirit which is difficult to be replicated.
SP : Describe your ideal customer. Who do you imagine them to be? Their qualities, interests, lifestyle.
DC : Intellectually beautiful (知性美), assertive, open-minded, artful, artistic, poetic. Examples pop-up in my mind: Troye Sivan, Bando Tamasaburo, 任劍輝,Ezra Miller, Leslie Cheung, etc.
SP : Do you design for Asian women?
DC : Yes sure. I will do so in the upcoming collection, but like I said before, I don’t like the stereotypical boundary of gender. I don’t want to name the collections as women or men. I rather to make it gender neutral, better still, ANDROGYNE.
SP : Do you remember the first buyer who bought your collection/pieces? Please describe that moment.
DC : YES! It was quite unbelievable 'cuz it is not easy to get orders from a famous department store! Especially since DEMO was just a new, growing brand at that moment. I am still very thankful, with grateful to meet those people who supported me, and bought into my ideas at the very beginning.
SP : I remember your collection at first was not very wearable. How did you find the balance between creative and commercial?
DC : Experience. It is not easy to have this balance and I think it is something that you WANT and TREASURE. When you are young, you have creativity, but you don’t have much experience on with commerce, so you will WANT it. But with time, your sub-conscious (understanding) of commercial factors will help to 'wash' out your creativity, and this will be the moment you TREASURE what you have.
SP : Please also tell us about the pieces you designed for the Mini collection. These were our favourite; and you used quite different materials for them.
DC : Something for show, and not bound by commercial factors, is always my love and where I feel most adventurous; like my Mini pieces! I was representing the 2000’s for the Mini collection. The first direct thing that popped in my mind was (五光十色). This is the reason why I use this futuristic material. With this idea, I then began to think how to incorporate it into DEMO's signature tweed texture. I cut the material into small tiny fringes to create these effects, and finally these two outfits.
SP : Why didn’t you use any Asian models in your collection?
DC : I did use! Nick Sung is one of the Asian models that always represents DEMO. Sometimes I prefer Asians, more than Caucasians 'cuz it is more relatable to me.
SP : What can we look forward to from you in the near future?
DC : I am bored with regular collections now. I want to have a 'spark' with other parties. I will create a capsule collection with Charles Lam, a very famous male influencer to discuss some topics on gender-statement. Stay tuned! I will share more to with you later!
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SP : 不如先講講你最新的SS20系列吧。
DC : 今次SS20最新系列《帝女花之香夭》是從同名經典粵劇故事中得到啟發的,這是一個淒美的愛情故事,講述一對戀人為愛犧牲,最後化成美麗的花。這個故事用美麗的大自然作背景,悲傷的戀人之間瀰漫著離別的情感。縱使這是個悲劇,人們卻感受到當中情感的美麗。這個系列便展示了美麗又悲慟的強烈對比。我們把粵劇的元素滲入設計中,包括花卉鑲邊,代表了樹林的陰暗與皎潔的月色,對比強列的色彩。
SP : 你曾經講過「每一個人的創作靈感是來自於他或她的desire(慾望)」,你的慾望是什麼?
DC : 我的慾望是通過我的服裝展示男性的多樣性。現實社會中的男性總是受到許多社會界限的束縛, 我們總是困在一定的刻板印像或構圖之下。這個突破邊界的概念是我在DEMO中的方向之一。
SP : 很多設計師在這圈子做了幾十年都未必有你到現時為止的成果,我會說你是極速上位了。你覺得是純粹好運還是你早有準備?
DC : 我覺得我沒有極速上位吧,哈哈!相比起一些在大型比賽中得到關注的優秀設計師,我覺得我同個比較循序漸進的人,我也很喜歡一步一步的慢慢成長。這讓我更加成熟和老練。
我不會說自已是幸運還是100%準備,但我會說我已經準備好而且有點幸運,這些不同的因素讓我成功。這像我們說你「天時地利人和」集合而成。
SP : 當你經歷過自已的極速上位,而現在social media主導的世界也走得好快。會不會擔心好快有其他品牌取代自已?
DC : 我不擔心自已會被取替,我反而會擔心自己的表現比過去還不夠好。我寧願跟自已作比較而不是別人。而我也覺得要令品牌成功的關鍵在於獨特性。 獨特性會讓我成為無可替代的,而獨特性也應該與您個人的信念相關,這是難以複制的。
SP : 你覺得誰會買你的作品?
DC : 我想這個人是擁有知性美的,果斷、豁達、充滿創意的、藝術的、詩意的。我腦海中浮現的例子有:Troye Sivan、Bando Tamasaburo、任劍輝、Ezra Miller、張國榮等等。
SP : 你的設計大多針對亞洲女性嗎?
DC : 我會在即將到來的系列中做到這一點,不過就像我之前所說的那樣:我不喜歡性別的刻板印象。 我不想將這些系列定性為女裝或男裝。 我寧願使其性別中立,雌雄同體的感覺。
SP : 你還記得第一個買你系列/作品的人嗎?當時有什麼感覺?
DC : 當然!因為要得到著名的百貨公司訂單並不容易,尤其當時DEMO還是一個成長中的品牌,是十分難以致信的事。我很感激遇上從一開始就支持我和我的設計的人。
SP : 我記得你最初的系列的穿著度不高,你是怎樣在這麼短的時間內平衡創意和商業考慮?
DC : 經驗!要保持平衡絕對不容易,之後有著「想要」和「珍惜」的取捨。初時你會有很多創意但缺乏商業經驗,你會做出你「想要」的設計。但隨著時間的流逝,您對商業考慮因素的潛意識將洗刮你部份創造力,這將是您要「珍惜」擁有的一切的一刻。
SP : 告訴我們您為Mini collection設計的作品。 這是我們的最愛,您使用的材料完全不同。
DC : 我喜歡和冒險,總是喜歡表演,而不是受商業因素的束縛,就像迷你! 我當時代表的是Mini系列的2000年代。 我想到的第一個直接問題是五光十色。 這就是為什麼我使用這種未來派材料的原因。 有了這個想法,我便思考如何將這種材料整合到DEMO特色花呢紋理中。 然後,我將材料切成小條紋,以創造出那種效果,最後是這兩套衣服。
SP : 為什麼你的系列並沒有用上任何亞洲模特兒?
DC : 我有用!Nick Sung是其中一個亞洲模特兒經常代表DEMO的!我比較喜歡用亞洲模特兒多於歐美的模特兒,因為感覺上和我更有關系。
SP : 你對將來的想法是?
DC : 我開始對平常的系列覺得悶了,很想和不同的人合作一下。我將會和一位很有名的時裝博客Charles Lam合作做一個迷你系列,等我遲一點再分享更多給大家啦!
Know more about Hong Kong fashion designer Kevin Ho here : http://kevinho.com.hk/
Photos : Nick D for @precursorprints
It was early and it was frantic. The watery cup of McDick's caffeine was not working. Probably needed 3 of them. My camera felt like lifting a fat baby. Ugh. Working my way around backstage snapping away, faces began to blur and designs stand out. Some knitwear pieces really drew my attention. The above one piece, for it's modern cut; I thought flattered the girl's figure. Diggin' the bold color blockin' too. Editing the photos by collection, the pieces belonged Kevin Ho. I did not know this Hong Kong designer, but now I do! We think highly of his work, get familiar now.
Kevin這天的時裝秀真的太早了,幾多杯咖啡都不能將我從熟睡中醒過來。在後台舉起相機時就好像在舉著一個肥寶寶,總之就是累得無法集中。還是睡眼惺忪的我看到了一些針織作品彼為有趣,馬上舉起相機拍了幾張,模特兒好像也被我嚇到了。在之後翻看相片的時候我再次注意到這件針織了,原來是來自香港設計師Kevin Ho的設計。現在一起來認識他多點吧!
<< CHINESE CONTINUES AFTER ENGLISH >>
SPITGAN : Hi Kevin. Can you pls introduce yourself.
Kevin Ho : My name is Kevin Ho, I am a Hong Kong based fashion designer. I graduated from London College of Fashion in 2012, where I majored in womenswear. After graduation, I returned to Hong Kong to pursue my career.
In 2015, I participated in the Hong Kong Young Designer Contest (YDC), a local design competition, where I was honored to receive the best Party&Eveningwear Category award. During the same year, I launched my namesake label Kevin Ho. In 2016, I was nominated by Hong Kong Trade Department Council to participate in the Asia Fashion Collection, an event organized by Vantan and Parco Japan. I was sponsored to debut in Tokyo Fashion Week, New York Fashion Week and Taipei Fashion Week. In 2017, I was awarded Designer of The Year in the Womenswear category by Hong Kong Fashion Council.
Colour and atypical craftsmanship are the signature of the brand. Often times, you will find bold colours, structural silhouettes and handcraft details in my design.
I would describe my brand as feminine, sophisticated, yet edgy and strong. I love to show the feminine side of women but at the same time give it a touch of masculinity. It’s delicate but not fragile.
My designs always combine structural silhouettes and distinctive textiles to deliver a cutting aesthetic, which is also what differentiates my brand from others.
SP : We were very interested in your collection, seeing it for the first time, this year at Fashionally/Centerstage, especially the knitwear pieces. Where do your design inspirations/references come from?
KH : I have always loved looking at art pieces. I believe art and fashion are connected. I am particularly fond of exploring different shapes and color, and I try to integrate these elements into my design.
This season is named “Vividness”, which is inspired by abstract painting, particularly from artists Lyubov Popova and Albert Gleizes. Focusing on the mix of colors and patterns, I wanted to do something that has the sense of abstract painting, organic and natural. I think it is hard to create that kind of touch by only doing colour blocking, so I expressed it through print design.
A series of colourful abstract prints were introduced this season. Splashes of bright colors resemble those from spray paint. I placed these patterns spontaneously, and in various gradients to mimic that of a colorful painting. The orange color block dress with the splash print turtleneck look is my favorite of this season. The dress itself has a printed panel inserted on the chest, and the hem was layered with contrasting colors, matching with the multi-color turtleneck top. I think this improves the visual impact (of the piece) and gives it a rather distinctive look.
SP : Your brand is 4 years old. What has grown and advanced with this collection?
KH : Yes, it has been 4 years now. The brand releases a womenswear collection bi-annually, including a footwear collection .We also offer tailor-made evening wear design service.
Most of my clients look for extravagant designs with high craftsmanship. Although my brand is currently most recognized for evening-wear, with a few mix-and-match tweaks, I think the clothes I design can be worn both at parties, and casually, on an everyday basis. For example, a metallic draped top could be worn with a denim jacket and jeans.
In the last few seasons, I have been targeting a broader audience, emphasizing effortless and easy outfits, so that these pieces can mix well with others in your wardrobe. I think the printed knit top is a fun item to play with. You may style it with your own solid color item or a multi layered jacquard skirt.
Check out this review of CENTERSTAGE SS2020 from Nylon Magazine here :
https://nylon.com/hong-kong-centrestage-fashion-review
SP : Describe the woman you design for. Her age, her interests, lifestyle, race.
KH : I am targeting a variety of women with fierce attitude. There is no particular age and race I design for.
I would describe them as cool, independent and confident, open minded and fearless. She is interested in fashion and loves art. Will dare to try anything good.
SP : Do you design for Asian women?
KH : I do, most of my customers are Asian. Beside the biannual collection, I also have private design services and most of those clients are local too.
SP : Why didn’t you use any Asian models in your collection?
KH : The show I just had in CENTRESTAGE was promoted by Fashionally, an organization which promotes local designers under the Hong Kong Trade Department Council. Among myself and 7 other local fashion designers, we form a group called Fashionally#14. In each participating group, models were cast by the organizer, although we are allowed to select our preferences on model, hair and makeup. At the end of the day, however, its all depends on what models are in town during said period, and we did use many Asian models in our past shows.
This collection was actually showed in Shenzhen Fashion Week as well, I used Asian models almost for the entire collection there, and they looked great in my designs too. If I am doing a brand show in Asia in the future, I probably will choose many Asian models, as I think using local models can help the Hong Kong audience to picture themselves in my designs.
SP : Do you think it is easier to establish your brand abroad or locally? Why?
KH : I think both have their own advantages. What is good about Hong Kong is the cost is lower compared to overseas. It is very close to China, which makes it easy for me to manage sourcing and production there, and easier it’s to explore the China market.
The advantage to overseas is the exposure. Especially in fashion capitals, they have a well developed fashion industry there, and they are under the spotlight. They have a bigger audience group which I think will present more opportunities and make it easier to reach prominent international platforms.
SP : What can we look forward to from you in the future?
KH : Collections that involve a lot of design development. Surprises of craftsmanship and design that will continue to impress the audience.
<< CHINESE CONTINUES BELOW >>
SP : Hi Kevin, 先介紹一下自已吧。
KH : Kevin Ho, 何昀霖,2012年畢業於倫敦時裝學院「London College of Fashion」主修女裝設計。畢業後回香港發展工作。在2015年參加了香港青年時裝設計加創作表演賽「YDC」很榮幸地在派對服及晚禮服組中奪得冠軍,並於同年成立了個人品牌KEVIN HO。2016年我獲得香港貿易發展局的提名,參與日本設計學院Vantan和日本時尚百貨公司Parco 聯合舉辦的AsiaFashion Collection,先後在東京,紐約,台北時裝週等地呈上時裝秀。 在2017年我獲得由Hong Kong Fashion Council頒發的Design of The Year Womenswear獎項。
顏色和獨特的剪裁是品牌的特色。你可以在我的設計上見到鮮艷的顏色,結構鮮明的外形和手工藝細節等。我會形容我的品牌風格是女性化,優雅,前衛和強悍。我喜歡在我的設計裏帶出女性的特質但同時加入了中性的元素。細緻但不脆弱。我的設計結合了結構性的剪裁和獨特的細節,這些元素令此品牌與別不同。
SP : 我們對您的系列非常感興趣,今年首次在Fashionally / Centerstage上看到了它,尤其是針織品。 您的設計靈感/參考來自哪裡?
KH : 我很喜歡藝術,我認為時裝和藝術是連繫的。我時常被形狀和顏色所吸引,所以經常在藝術品裏尋找靈感。
今季系列的題材名字叫「Vividness」,靈感來源是抽象派的油畫, 如畫家Lyubov Popova和Albert Gleizes的作品影響最深。系列專注在顏色和圖案的運用,今季想營造出 一個富色彩和活力的系列。像抽象派的油畫般帶有一絲隨意,不受控制的動感。我覺得單一地使用colourblocking是很難呈現這種感覺,所以最終我透過印花設計來表達。一系列的抽象印花圖案注入了系列當中。圖案像噴墨一樣。我想做到一種不隨意的感覺,所以圖案的尺寸較大,而不規則地在不同位置上出現,顏色由實色到化開淡出,感覺像畫 一樣。
橙黑色拼色連身裙配襯印花樽領是我今季最喜歡的造型。連身裙的衫身加上印花細節,裙擺是雙層撞色的不對稱剪裁配合彩色的印花上衣。整個配襯充滿特色令視覺效果也提升。
Check out this review of CENTERSTAGE SS2020 from Apple Daily here :
https://hk.lifestyle.appledaily.com/lifestyle/realtime/article/20190904/59986192
SP : 您的品牌已經4歲了! 這個系列的發展和進步是什麼?
KH : 對,已經四年了。品牌暫時以一年兩季推出系列,包括鞋的系列。此外也提供度身訂造和派對服設計服務等。
普遍購買我品牌服式的客人主要是挑選一些比較華麗和手工感重的服式來出席一些較隆重的場合。品牌在初始時常被標籤為晚裝類別,但是我沒有意圖營造這方向。我認為我的設計可塑性非常高,只要加以配搭,我的設計是非常適合不同場合和環境的。例如一件金屬色的上衣可以配搭牛仔外套和褲等。
在過往的幾個系列中,我嘗試以一個更大眾化的切入點來設計,強調可穿性。特別是這一季,系列的款式能更容易跟你的衣櫃裏的配件隨意配搭。我認為今季的印花上衣是一件非常容易配襯的款式,你可以跟你的單色物品配襯或者跟多層次題花半要群配襯出不同的感覺。
SP : 試描述一下您的設計是個怎樣的女人。 她的年齡、興趣、生活方式、種族等等。
KH : 我的品牌定位是以強悍和有個性的女性為中心,沒有特定的年紀和種族。我會形容她是剛中帶柔,個性獨立,有自信的職業女性。 很清楚自已追求甚麼,大膽,喜歡留意時裝和藝術及勇於嘗試新事物。
SP: 你的設計大多針對亞洲女性嗎?
KH : 有,我的客人大多數來亞洲市場。除了我品牌的系列外,我還會提供高級訂制的設計服務,而顧客也主要是亞洲女性。
SP : 為什麼你的系列並沒有用上任何亞洲模特兒?
KH : 剛剛在CENTRESTAGE完成的時裝秀是FASHIONALLY 所舉辦的,它是一個香港貿易發展局旗下,推廣本地時裝的一個組織。 FASHIONALLY #14 是一個團體秀, 一共8位設計師,模特兒是由主辦單位安排,給8位設計師一同互用。我們只能提供對模特兒的喜好,髮型和化妝等。但這一切都取決於當時有什麼模特兒 。而我們在過往的時裝秀中也選用過很多亞睿的模特兒。
其實這個系列也在深圳時裝周中發佈過,當時我選用亞睿的模特兒差不多佔整個系列。而服式也相當配襯,效果很好。假若我將來也在亞洲地區中發佈新的系列,我也會選用當地的模特兒,因為我認為這樣可以令到當地的觀眾更容易代入服式當中。
SP : 您認為在國外或本地建立品牌會更容易嗎? 為什麼?
KH : 我認為雙方也有優點。香港的優點是成本相對地便宜,近中國,能夠很方便地穿梭中港兩地,尋找物料和管理生產,並能夠更容易接足和探索中國內地市場。
而在海外的優勢是曝光率,如時裝首都,當地的時裝工業已經發展得很成熟。世界的焦點也是放在那邊,我認為海外會更容易接觸到更大的觀眾和國際平台。
SP : 你對將來的想法是?
KH : 我會繼續保持品牌的宗旨,繼續做好的設計,帶給觀眾優越的驚喜。